Nyn Park

Northaw, Hertfordshire.

*Memories of Nyn

*The Grange

*Lee Valley Park

"The Cuffley Story" by Patricia Klijn and Michael Clark

Introduction:

The following photographs were taken during a 'trip down memory lane' for me on the afternoon of Saturday 17th July 2004.  It was the first time I'd seen the Park and Manor ruins for over 30 years and was a spur of the moment impulse to return there;  as it now transpires *see update* it will probably be the last.

As there are no legitimate entrances to the Park, I squeezed through the hedge from Vineyards Road and headed, from memory, straight down through the forest in what used to be known as Lake Field, towards the lake (Nyn Pond).  I was thrilled when I saw the growth of Goat Willows that surrounds the lake and soon found a gap on the bank from which I had an unobstructed view.

Gone were the bulrushes and choking weeds that had blighted the lake for so many years instead was a clear stretch of water with its two small islands clearly defined instead of conjoined with the banks by overgrowth.

Huge fresh water mussels were to be seen clinging to the bank and submerged tree roots with many open shells scattered around  - obviously a good food source for birds.

Pushing on down along the bank of the lake I came upon the wide track, once gravel but now grass, that to the right leads to Nyn Manor Farm (known for many years as 'Highnam's') and to the left leads to the Manor (Nyn House). Turning left, I followed the track into a large clearing in the centre of which stood the obelisk erected by Major Frank Russell Dore to commemorate the planting of his forest.

Beside the clearing was the old carriage sweep leading to the front of the Manor.  Following this around to the right, I came upon the only remaining structure, the main entrance to the house.  A very sad sight it was too. The porch arch was crumbling away (I picked up a tiny piece and popped it in my pocket), and the whole of the site was smothered by weed, bramble and saplings.

I walked up to the entrance of the stable yard; the two gate-posts were still standing but the wall was just rubble. All the buildings have been razed to the ground which, to me, was rather sad as they were not damaged by the fire and were still intact the last time I visited.  Lying on the ground close to where the old kitchen would have stood, were remains of kitchen equipment and a couple of white china cups and saucers; a poignant reminder of the cup of tea I'd had in that very kitchen all those years ago and just two weeks before the fire.

The day had been fine and warm but now the sun was setting and it was time to leave.  The atmosphere at the house was very peaceful; the only sounds to be heard were those of birds singing and insects buzzing.  I took many photographs during the afternoon some of which were rather blurred; I wonder why - maybe the 'something' that got into my eyes?

P

Plaque erected by the late Major Frank Russell Dore, the former owner of Nyn Park.

(Major Dore assisted with much of the tree planting himself).

From the inscription it is quite clear that Major Dore intended the public to enjoy his forest (there is even a small rustic bench placed in the clearing close to the obelisk), however public access is not permitted and there are no public rights of way across Nyn Park. The old minor entrance ways are now overgrown with brambles, nettles and other weeds and are not negotiable.  Even the raggle-taggle woodland bordering the Northaw Ridgeway (opposite the Great Wood) is 'out of bounds.' The only (discreet) way into the Estate is through the new forest itself;  there are no marked pathways to the centre and a knowledge of the layout is necessary to find both Nyn Pond (Lake) and the remains of Nyn House (Manor).

The Parkland was previously laid to grass and arable, farmed by Nyn Manor Farm, the old home farm to the Manor.  The majority of this land, known locally as the Nyn Valley, is now planted with conifers interspersed with the remains of the ancient woodland

Although presumably managed woodland, on my visit (late afternoon/early evening) the Estate  showed little sign of recent activity and there was no machinery or on-site storage for such equipment.

The 'New' Forest

Part of the 'new' forest on the former Lake Field, immediately to the rear of the cemetery in Vineyards Road, Northaw.  The 'Lake Field' was used for the grazing of horses and ponies from Nyn Manor Riding School that used to be run from Nyn Manor Farm, the Home Farm for the old Manor.  The Riding School moved in the 1950s to Kentish Lane and was renamed Warrenwood Riding School and has now closed.

Nyn Lake (also known as Nyn Pond)
The restored lake in Nyn Park, Northaw.

The lake was to be used for boating and fishing by past owners of the Manor but both it and its boat-house fell into disrepair many years ago.  When I was a child, there were several punts that had sunk to the bottom of the water in the boat-house.  There is now no trace of the building and that side of the lake is impenetrable. (I wonder whether today's generation of youngsters still sneak down through the forest with their fishing rods or jam jars on string to collect frogspawn to take home to their horrified mothers).

Nyn Lake (also known as Nyn Pond)
The restored lake in Nyn Park, Northaw.

There are two small islands on the lake, one of which can be seen here on the far side. For very many years  the lake was clogged with weed, algae and bulrushes to such an extent that the two islands had become conjoined with the banks- it was good to see that it has now been restored to its original condition. There are large numbers of enormous fresh water mussels in the lake and, judging from the number of opened shells on the banks, these provide a good food supply for the numerous varieties of water fowl that inhabit the area.

The Cart-track
Looking towards Nyn Manor Farm - the previously gravelled cart-track from Nyn Manor to the farm, Northaw.

The Cart-track
The previously gravelled cart-track looking towards Nyn Manor from Nyn Manor Farm, Northaw.

The Driveway
This is the drive leading from the Manor house up to Well Road, Northaw.

The Obelisk
The wording on this obelisk appears to infer that Major Russell Dore had intended that the public should have access to his forest - there is no public access at this time.

Nyn Manor (known also as Nyn House)

The entrance porch is the only remaining structure following the fire of Good Friday 1963 that totally destroyed the house which (to the best of my knowledge) was built on the site of a much older Manor House, by the Earl of Warwick, in the gift of Henry VIII, as a 'hunting box' and frequented by Elizabeth I when she was living at nearby Hatfield Palace. (How ironic that a fire hydrant should be placed so close to the entrance). Two fire pumps became bogged down in the mud on the way to take water from Nyn Lake, preventing further access. 

Apparently the Fire Brigade could do little to save the house as  tanks of central heating oil fuelled the fire that engulfed the entire structure.

 It was a very beautiful and secluded house and unfortunately I've so far been unable to find any images of it prior to the fire (other than in a very small photograph of a 1930's sales brochure sold on ebay in April 2004) and there is little record in the public domain of its very interesting history. The front elevation was constructed of brick and stone and the windows were glazed with crystal leaded lights; to the rear the house was timbered and painted typically in black and white; the many chimneys were both Tudor and Elizabethan.

Large numbers of local people (myself included) stood in Vineyards Road and watched the fire blaze for most of that Good Friday night.  The following morning I walked down the track from Northaw Village Green and saw the total devastation the fire had caused (I was comforted by a sympathetic fireman who commented that perhaps it would be rebuilt even better than before!!) Maybe this was a prophetic comment after all! *see update*

There was rumoured to be a 'secret passage' running from the Manor House to the area of The Grange on Coopers Lane Road between Northaw and Potters Bar.  Apparently several of the village men once tried to investigate this but although they found the 'passage' it proved impassable.  There certainly was a large water supply system running from the lake area (there used to be a concrete reservoir seemingly fed from the lake) up to tanks under the village green, where the pump still stands. 

A previous family in residence employed only female staff as one of their members was a little, say, eccentric and was allegedly in the habit of wandering around dressed in 'very little.'  One family member was still living in the village in the 1960s with her 'companion,' a lady gardener.

Two previous Lords of the Manor were from the Le Blanc and Kidston families;  family graves for both are  in Northaw Churchyard.

The Estate was sold during the late 1930s along with farms, houses, terraced cottages and the village shop all as separate lots, thus breaking up what was once a very important part of Northaw.  After this, Nyn Park became a very private area, out of bounds to villagers.

Prior to its purchase by Major Frank Russell Dore, the Estate was in the ownership of St. Bartholomew's Hospital and apparently used for  storage. (With a local farmer I visited the house two weeks before the fire and all that was there were mattresses and leg-irons belonging to the hospital. The woodwork had been stripped back and there was a good deal of heating oil stored at the house as, I was told, an attempt at drying out was being made).

There was a caretaker who spent much of his time working the grounds which were always kept immaculate with weed-free gravel drives, neatly trimmed and pruned trees of many varieties and well manicured lawns to the front and rear.  There was also a large walled garden to the side/rear of the house which was also kept in good order right up until it was decided to demolish the ruins and abandon the site to nature.  The caretaker had two Labrador dogs (father 'Ripper' and son) the younger of which was sadly killed in the fire despite valiant attempts at rescue by a local man.

There has been interest in rebuilding another house on the site of the Manor over the years but (until recently *see update*) all attempts proved unsuccessful with the local planning authority.  The house was set at the bottom of a deep valley and the area was very damp.  During the Autumn and Winter months, much of the Park is shrouded in heavy mist.  One of the reasons the Fire Brigade was unable to get water on to the fire quickly was that the pumps became bogged down in the mud on the tracks down to the house. It is likely that the planting of the conifer forest will have helped to reduce the amount of water sitting low in the valley.

Obviously members of the general public are not encouraged to enter the park as all paths are very overgrown and impassable, with the exception of the now main Well Road drive (private) and there are no 'viewpoints' at all.

Nyn Manor Ruins
Detail from the entrance porch.

Immediately following the fire, the lower walls and tall chimneys were left intact.  These were all demolished some time afterwards, presumably for safety reasons.

Nyn Manor Ruins
Detail from the entrance porch.

The Stable Entrance

This is one of the entrance pillars to the old stable yard immediately adjacent to the house.  This part of the Manor was untouched by the fire.  It consisted of a large cobbled yard surrounded by coach housing and stabling and was demolished in the years following the fire.  There was a small, very elderly and blind pony resident in the stables - he was found wandering loose after the fire, seemingly unharmed.  I believe his name was Sammy.  His owner lived in the village and sadly watched as her old family home burned.

Lead Crystal

Amongst the piles of debris are small fragments of the crystal leaded lights from the front of the house that used to catch the sunset. A local woman walking her dog in the vicinity on the evening of the fire, reported seeing a 'red glow' from the Manor but assumed it was the sunset reflecting in the windows.

The Garden

The ornamental trees and lawns have now been left to run riot. For a long time after the fire, the grounds were kept in immaculate condition, presumably in case it was decided to rebuild.

The Front Lawn

This, once manicured, lawn was the scene of a 'game' between Albert Finney on a scooter and Susan Hampshire in a mini, from the 1960s film "Night Must Fall" which was filmed in and around Northaw Village. I taught at a rally of The Enfield Chace Pony Club in the mid 1970s that was held mainly on the front lawns, at which time the walls and chimneys of the house were still standing.  Major Russell Dore was, at that time, Master of the Enfield Chace Foxhounds and was very supportive of the Enfield Chace Pony Club branch.  He presented the Russell Dore Cup one day event trophy to the Club (my pony was the very proud holder for a time).

The Gardens
The once neatly trimmed ornamental trees are now huge.

The Walled Garden
The bricks have been removed and no sign of the previous kitchen gardens remain.

The 'New' Forest
A grass track through the forest on the way back to Northaw Village Green.

These are some of the deciduous trees that inhabited the Park prior to the planting of the conifer forest.  There are many who disapprove of the planting of non-deciduous trees in this countryside setting, but for many of us it was the lesser of two evils; a conifer forest or the prospect of redevelopment in the future.  Thanks to Major Frank Russell Dore who bought the Estate following the fire, the future of the valley seems secure as a peaceful haven for wildlife.

There was much speculation amongst Northaw people during the late fifties and early sixties about the long-term future of Nyn Park. There was so much new development in the surrounding areas, Welwyn Garden City and Hatfield were growing rapidly and (probably exaggerated if not unfounded) rumours abounded about planning permission having been sought by developers to build shopping centres/bowling alleys etc., in the valley.  In the face of this prospective lucrative development, a single unoccupied house hidden away from public sight seemed to have a rather bleak future.  Small farming was in decline and the Nyn Valley land would have certainly attracted developers had planning permission been forthcoming.  However, following the fire it became apparent that no such permission was to be granted.  The purchase of the land and subsequent planting of the forest was a considerable relief to many of us concerned with the conservation of a village area already 'blighted' (in my view) by excessive in-filling and back-land development.

Setting Sun
The setting sun through the forest on the way back to the Village Green.

Judges Hill Field
View from the Manor Drive looking up towards Northaw Village.

Memorial

This is the memorial headstone of Major Frank and 'Kate.'  They are buried together at the far end of the Cemetery in Vineyards Road, Northaw, just feet from their beloved Nyn Park and the forest they helped to create. Long may their 'dream' remain intact.

The Church of St. Thomas a' Becket Northaw.
The West elevation bathed in the setting sun with the clock showing that it's long past supper time.

The Green
The sun setting in the West over Northaw Village Green, showing the sign for the Best Kept Small Village and "The Sun" public house.

Summary

I hope you've enjoyed my photographs as much as I did taking them and writing about one of my favourite places.  As a child I used to be able to look North from my bedroom window in Vineyards Road, across the Nyn Valley and kept my ponies at Nyn Manor Farm.  My friends and I used to ride through the Estate regularly (and discreetly) and I, together with my brother, used to trespass  to 'pinch' wild daffodils and bluebells from the Manor grounds, 'investigate' the tiny ruined Lodge close by that we named 'Snowdrop' and to 'fiddle' with the punts in the old boat house.

During the Winter the lake used to freeze over and we'd ice skate on it (accompanied by parents) and we'd also toboggan on the very steep Lake Field.

I lived in the village until my marriage in December 1968 and my parents remained there until April 1979 when, sadly, the family home was (ironically) destroyed by fire and they decided to move away. I always find it hard to return to the village as so much has changed over the years, it is so much larger now and far 'smarter.' I don't necessarily find that a good thing although, I dare say, current residents would disagree.

The information accompanying my photographs is as accurate as memory permits and is not intended as an historical record, merely a nostalgic glimpse at my past, but if anyone has further information about either the Manor or Northaw Village in general, please contact me and I shall be very pleased to hear from you.

Penny .

Update

(January 2006)

Nyn Park has been offered for sale with planning permission (2005) for "reconstruction" of the house referred to by the Agents as "Nyn Hall" (Agents referred to the house as Nyn House in their 1930's brochure - on an 1880's map the house is not named as such, just referred to as "Nyn Park" with the lake marked as "Nyn Pond").

The sale includes shooting and fishing rights so perhaps the 'peaceful haven for wildlife' to which I referred previously, will soon be not quite so peaceful.  However, one can only hope that the purchaser will be as sympathetic to the nature of the area as was Major Dore and that the Nyn Manor Estate will be fully restored to its former condition with the house, in the words of my prophetic fireman, "even better than ever."

There has been criticism of the lack of public access to much of the privately owned land surrounding Northaw Village but, hopefully and in light of recent changes in legislation, some access may be permitted to areas such as Nyn Park in the not too distant future.  One lives in hope but however fine the new house or well kept the Estate may be, for me the mystery and childhood magic of Nyn Manor will be gone forever.

P.

Update

(May 2006)

Since January I've received email communications from a Mr. Francis Fielding from New Zealand and from 'Wendy' who's Father spent time at the Manor Estate in the 1920's.  I've added their contributions and hope you enjoy reading them as much as I and thanks to them both for a wonderful nostalgic glimpse into the past.

P

Update 2007

On March 27^th I paid another visit to Nyn Park to see what, if any, clearance work had taken place around the curtilage of the old Manor House but before doing so my friend and fellow intrepid explorer, Lee, and I decided to find the elusive Griffin’s Hole, the old well from which Well Road takes its name and which used to be the main source of water for Northaw Village.  A fellow Northaw primary school pupil, Geof, had contacted me with some very valuable information about Northaw and Nyn history.  His family had worked for the Estate and knew both the Dore family and the previous occupant, Miss Arthur. Another item of news Geof had for me was that the cottage previously owned by Max Bryant, former Vicar of Northaw/Cuffley and used as the central house in the sixties film, Night Must Fall, was advertised for sale.  Apparently planning permission for demolition and replacement has been refused even though the cottage is unlisted.  Hopefully a purchaser can be found with the will to restore and extend this rather attractive building – it was sad to see it in such a dilapidated state and its once fabulous gardens maintained by Vicar Bryant and his wife Dorothy, now little more than a ‘field.’

Driving along Well Road, we sighted the public footpath sign to Griffin’s Hole just beyond the bottom of Vine Cottage’s garden that runs parallel to the road and a few yards past a small electrical installation.  The path to the well has been cleared to the width of the old horse-drawn water carts that once would have travelled to draw water.  The well has been cleared of rubbish and foliage overgrowth, repaired and covered with a grill for safety reasons, as it is full to the brim with water.  This water would have been collected, placed into containers aboard the carts and transported to Northaw Village Green from where it was emptied into the large storage tanks, from where villagers would have drawn their water via the pump.  The tank covers can still be seen on the Green and the pump is still in situ.

It was at this point that Lee and I decided to visit the old Manor once again and made our way through the forest to the lake, Nyn Pond.  Nothing had changed since my last visit other than the trees around the margins had not yet come into leaf.  The weather was warm and the sky blue, reflecting in the very still waters.  All was as peaceful as previously.

Reaching the memorial obelisk we found it surrounded by daffodils although nowhere near the number that I’d expected.  In past years the ground had been carpeted with them – the short, double type that make such a wonderful splash of colour.

Passing on, we rounded the bend in the drive to see the entire site of the old house had been cleared away exposing the old stable yard (no sign of the old boxes and coach house). A small range of collapsed brick storage sheds is all that remains.

On the far side of the yard, through a fallen gateway, we found some of the old cold-frames that would have housed plants that kept the gardens looking so wonderful in past years.

From there we could see the outline of the old walls and ornate balustrades with steps leading down to the rear lawns – how wonderful they used to look in their heyday but now a rather forlorn site. On our previous visit all the landscaping, both soft and hard, had been completely concealed beneath a forest of flowering thistles.

Surrounded by chestnut paling stands the old oak tree that must have once housed ‘Martin’s’ swing.  We could find no other that fitted Martin’s description. It’s good to see that the roots are being protected from damage when the building work begins on the new house.

Seeing the oak and remembering what Martin (see Memories of Nyn) said about its proximity to the old Gardener’s Cottage that my brother and I had named ‘Snowdrop,’ we decided to take a look around to see if we could find its remains (I’d been contacted by ‘David’ who’d paid a visit to Nyn having read about the Estate on PennyArcade, and he’d told me that the cottage remains were still there). Sure enough, hidden by the now overgrown trees was ‘Snowdrop.’  (The decorative white cottage eaves can be seen reflected in one of the rear Manor House windows shown in one of the photos Martin sent to me – this can be seen in Memories of Nyn). The cottage now has no upper floor, just one room remains relatively intact, and the chimney still stands with a fireplace on either side keeping nothing warm but two spaces open to the sky, cluttered with roof slates, moss-covered bricks and small pieces of blue tiling. Through the centre of the house grows a tree.

Time was passing and we took one last look at the entrance porch – the mud and leaves had been scraped aside to expose a portion of the old mosaic flooring (‘David’ had told me he had looked for and found this during his visit). Lee took a photo of me standing in the doorway to show just how large this once magnificent entrance is.

Below are photographs showing two images of the old building that occupied the site.  These were demolished and replaced by a ‘farmhouse’ used by successive Lords of the Manor.  Mr. Kidston then remodelled and extended this farmhouse to form Nyn Park as it was at the time of the fire as shown in the second pair of images. Also shown are the Kidstons and their friend, Harriet Le Blanc, whose family owned Northaw House on Judges Hill.

Nyn Hall circa 1700

The Earl of Warwick built Nyn Hall in about 1590 . As it is known that Elizabeth I and Cavendish stayed at Northaw, it is probably that a house, probably a hunting lodge, stood on the site prior to 1535.  The 'Hall' was demolished in 1774 the stonework being used in the construction of Northaw House on Judges Hill, the family home of the Le Blanc family.

Nyn Hall circa 1760

"The house had much good accommodation without any rooms of great magnitude or elegance except the hall.  This was paved with marble, complete in the form of a College Hall, with a platform of oak for the upper table and every appearance of a buttery at the lower end ..... There was a gallery 90ft long and a library of considerable size at the bottom end of it.  The house was very dry and comfortable."  (Binyon. 19th Century Northaw Schoolmaster, in his "Notes" held at C.R.O.)

Nyn Park 1890

Showing extension work to the house carried out on behalf of Mr. John Kidston by Sir Reginald Blomfield.

Rear of Nyn Park and Gardens 1893

Mr. Kidston died in 1894 and his widow continued to live there until 1929 when it was bought by Miss Arthur.  She resided in the house until 1947 when she moved to Vernon House in the village. The property was then sold to St. Bartholomew's Hospital. It had been intended for use as a convalescent home but was only ever used for storage.

Nyn Park 1895

Showing the front elevation after completion of the extension

1890.  Showing Mr. Kidston on the steps of The Parsonage, Northaw, with Mrs. Kidston, Miss Harriet Le Blanc and Miss Dickson.

The Fire

Good Friday, April 12th 1963

The Ruins 1964

The ruins were eventually demolished, all but the entrance porch, for safety reasons.

My thanks to Geof for sending me these last eight photographs – they are amazing.

 (A full colour version of the Manor on fire and the ruins before demolition, taken by Michael Clark, can be seen in his and Patricia Klijn’s book, “The Cuffley Story” linked at the top of this section of PennyArcade).

Update 

(November 2008)

The following set of photographs were sent to me by ‘Graham’ from Canada who took them during a visit to Nyn in 1986 whilst a guest in the Lodge House at the entrance to the Estate, in Well Road, just off Judges Hill, Northaw.  They show the extent of the devastation just prior to demolition. My thanks to Graham for sending them; they are a valuable addition to Nyn’s ‘story.’

(Photos courtesy of Graham Lawrey; all rights reserved)

Thank you again Graham, much appreciated.

Penny

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